The pursuit of the perfect bagel has led many bakers down a path of meticulous experimentation, and for some, this journey is a constant evolution. Such is the case with the "new wave" sourdough bagel, a culinary creation that refines and reimagines a beloved classic. This updated recipe, born from a series of thoughtful inquiries and iterative adjustments, seeks to elevate the sourdough bagel experience, moving beyond traditional textures and flavors to embrace a lighter, more nuanced profile.

At its core, this recipe is a testament to the power of subtle modifications. The baker’s quest began with fundamental questions: could the inherent sweetness of a sourdough starter be integrated earlier in the process? What character could be introduced by blending various flours, including those with a lower protein content for a more tender crumb? How could shaping techniques and fermentation methods be optimized for a superior outcome? This iteration answers those questions, presenting a sourdough bagel that is both familiar and distinctly modern, much like the widely acclaimed "My Best Sourdough Bread" recipe, where small process refinements cumulatively yield significant results.

The journey to this refined recipe was deliberate, with each variable meticulously addressed. The flour blend was the first significant alteration, moving from a single flour to a sophisticated combination of high- and medium-protein white flours, complemented by whole wheat and a touch of whole rye. This not only adds depth of flavor but also influences the texture. The levain, or sourdough starter, was also re-engineered with a minute amount of sugar. This strategic addition aims to cultivate a more yeast-dominant culture, thereby minimizing the characteristic sourness that can sometimes dominate a sourdough bagel.

The shaping process underwent a transformation as well. The traditional method of rolling dough into a rope and joining the ends was replaced with the "poke method." This technique, particularly well-suited for higher hydration doughs, involves creating a hole in the center of a dough ball and gently stretching it open. This approach is not only simpler and more forgiving but also tends to produce a more uniformly shaped bagel. The final critical adjustment was the introduction of an overnight cold proof, or retard. This extended period of rest in the refrigerator significantly impacted the final product, resulting in a crust that developed more blisters and a flavor profile that became more complex and nuanced during baking. The crumb structure also opened up slightly, contributing to an overall lighter and more appealing texture. While not a radical departure from traditional bagel-making, this version represents a carefully honed evolution, a sharpening of an already beloved recipe.

The "New Wave" Versus the Traditional: A Distinct Identity

The sourdough bagel recipe found in the author’s first cookbook leans towards the traditional New York-style bagel. This established archetype is characterized by its distinct chewiness, a slightly thicker crust, and a more uniformly closed crumb. It embodies a classic, comforting texture that has been a staple for decades.

In contrast, this "new wave" sourdough bagel, as it’s affectionately termed, aligns more closely with the offerings of contemporary, trend-setting bakeries. Establishments like the highly popular Courage Bagels in Los Angeles exemplify this emerging style. These bagels are notably lighter in texture, boasting a glossy, blistered crust that possesses a delicate crispness. Their shape and structure can be less uniform, lending them an artisanal charm, and they feature a more open crumb, offering a different, yet equally satisfying, textural experience. This distinction highlights a growing divergence in bagel preferences, with some consumers seeking the timeless chew of a New York bagel and others embracing the lighter, more delicate characteristics of this new wave.

The Art of Shaping, Boiling, and Baking: Expert Insights

Achieving the perfect "new wave" sourdough bagel involves a nuanced understanding of several key techniques. After extensive experimentation, the author offers valuable insights gleaned from countless batches:

• Embrace the Poke Method for Shaping: The poke method is a significant departure from traditional rope-rolling. For higher hydration doughs, it proves more manageable and forgiving. By creating a hole in the center of a balled piece of dough and gently stretching it, bakers can achieve a more even ring shape that is less prone to unraveling during the boiling process. This technique also contributes to a more consistent final product.

• The Indispensable Overnight Retard: While same-day baking is an option for those pressed for time, the overnight cold proof is a crucial element in developing the bagel’s superior flavor and texture. This extended refrigeration period allows the flavors to deepen and meld, while also streamlining the baking schedule. Shaping occurs one evening, followed by boiling and baking the subsequent morning, creating a more manageable workflow.

• Mastering the Boil Water Bath: The composition of the boiling liquid is paramount. The inclusion of a generous amount of barley malt syrup is a classic technique that significantly contributes to the crust’s color and imbues a unique malty flavor that is difficult to replicate. The addition of baking soda enhances the alkalinity of the water, further promoting crust browning. The resulting water should appear noticeably dark.

• Precise Boil Time and Intensity: The duration of the boil directly influences the crust’s texture. A shorter boil, around 20 to 30 seconds per side, results in a thinner, crispier crust. Conversely, a longer boil develops a chewier texture and a denser skin. For this specific dough, a shorter boil is preferred to achieve a crust with ample bite without becoming leathery. Crucially, the malt syrup water must be at a vigorous, rolling boil before the bagels are introduced.

  

• The Power of a Preheated Baking Surface: Similar to artisanal bread and pizza, bagels benefit immensely from intense direct heat from below. A baking steel is considered ideal for this purpose, though a thick baking stone can also be effective. It is imperative to preheat this surface for at least one hour to ensure optimal heat transfer.

• The Role of Steam in Baking: Introducing steam into the oven environment during the initial stages of baking encourages the formation of microblisters on the bagel’s crust. This technique, commonly employed in bread baking, further enhances the visual appeal and textural complexity of the final product.

The overarching goal with this refined recipe is to produce a sourdough bagel that feels intentional and artfully crafted. The desired outcome is a bagel that is light, possesses a subtle chew, a crisp exterior, a distinct malty sweetness, and a hint of whole-grain character, making it a perfect vessel for simple toppings like cream cheese, allowing its inherent qualities to shine.

The Baking Schedule: A Three-Day Approach

The creation of these "new wave" sourdough bagels is a process that unfolds over three days, offering flexibility within its structured timeline.

• Day One (Evening): The process begins with the preparation of the sweet levain. This preferment, enriched with a small amount of sugar, is left to ferment overnight at room temperature. This stage is crucial for developing a robust yeast population and a mild flavor profile.

• Day Two (Morning): The following morning, the main dough is mixed, incorporating the ripened levain and the carefully selected flour blend. This is followed by a bulk fermentation period. Upon completion of bulk fermentation, the dough is divided, shaped, and then subjected to a cold proof (retard) in the refrigerator. This overnight rest is essential for flavor development and texture enhancement.

• Day Three (Morning/Afternoon): The final day is dedicated to the boiling and baking of the bagels. After the cold proof, the bagels are allowed to proof at room temperature for a short period before being boiled and baked. This phased approach allows for a manageable workflow and optimal results.

For those seeking a quicker preparation, the overnight cold proof can be omitted. In this scenario, after shaping, the bagel dough can proof on the counter for approximately two to three hours, until it passes the "poke test"—a visual and tactile indicator of sufficient proofing.

The Foundation: A Thoughtful Flour Selection

The carefully curated flour blend is instrumental in defining the character of these sourdough bagels.

• High-Protein White Flour (45%): Constituting nearly half of the flour blend, high-protein white flour, typically in the 12-14% protein range (such as King Arthur Bread Flour or Central Milling Great Northern), provides the essential structure and the signature chew that defines a great bagel.

• Medium-Protein White Flour (40%): Central Milling’s Artisan Bakers Craft, a finely milled, medium-strength bread flour, contributes the next largest portion. If this specific flour is unavailable, any quality medium-protein white flour with at least 11% protein can serve as a suitable substitute.

• Whole Wheat and Whole Rye Flour (15%): The remaining 15% of the blend is composed of whole wheat and whole rye flours. These are not included for nutritional value alone but for their significant impact on flavor and fermentation. Whole wheat imparts a warm, nutty depth, while whole rye adds a subtle earthiness and aids in fermentation activity and crust coloration. Together, they introduce a complexity that a purely white flour dough cannot achieve, without making the bagel overly dense.

  

Sweeteners: A Triad of Flavor and Function

This recipe employs a strategic combination of three distinct sweeteners, each serving a specific purpose:

• Barley Malt Syrup: This classic bagel ingredient is incorporated into both the final dough and the boiling water. It is the hallmark of bagel flavor, delivering a malty, slightly sweet, subtly bitter, and deeply savory profile. It also plays a crucial role in promoting desirable browning during baking.

• Diastatic Malt Powder: A fundamentally different ingredient from barley malt syrup, diastatic malt powder contains active enzymes. These enzymes break down starches into sugars during fermentation and baking, which contributes to improved crust color, enhanced oven spring, and a slightly more open crumb. A mere 1% inclusion is considered high in this context and is a small addition with a significant impact.

• Superfine (Caster) Sugar: This sweetener is reserved exclusively for the levain, not the main dough. The inclusion of sugar in the levain ("sweet levain" or "sweet starter") is a deliberate choice to encourage vigorous yeast activity, leading to maximum rise with minimal sourness transferring to the final bagel.

  

New Wave Sourdough Bagel Recipe: A Detailed Guide

This recipe is designed to yield twelve 130-gram bagels, with a total dough weight of 1,620 grams to account for minor losses during preparation. The formula can be easily scaled using baker’s percentages. The target final dough temperature for optimal results is between 76-78°F (24-26°C).

Vitals:

• Total Dough Weight: 1,620 grams
• Prefermented Flour: 10.0%
• Hydration: 68.0%
• Yield: Twelve 130-gram bagels

Total Formula:

New Wave Sourdough Bagel Method: A Step-by-Step Guide

1. Prepare the Levain (Day One, 9:00 p.m.):
In a clean, tall jar, combine 90g of medium-protein white flour, 81g of water, 18g of superfine sugar, and 36g of ripe sourdough starter. Stir until the sugar is dissolved and the starter is fully incorporated. Cover and let it ferment at room temperature (74-76°F / 23-24°C) overnight, approximately 12 to 14 hours. The levain is ready when it has significantly risen, is bubbly on top, and has a sweet aroma.

2. Mix the Dough (Day Two, 9:00 a.m.):

• With a Mechanical Mixer: Combine the flours, levain, barley malt syrup, diastatic malt powder, salt, and Water 1 in the mixer bowl. Mix on low speed for 1-2 minutes until a shaggy mass forms. Increase to medium speed (120-130 RPMs) and mix for 5 minutes. Allow the stiff dough to rest for 5 minutes. Resume mixing on medium speed, gradually adding Water 2 over 5 minutes, until the dough is smooth, strong, and pulls cleanly from the bowl. It should feel firm but slightly tacky.
• By Hand: Combine all dry ingredients and flour in a large bowl. Add the levain, barley malt syrup, diastatic malt powder, and Water 1. Mix thoroughly with wet hands or a dough whisk until no dry flour remains. Employ the slap-and-fold technique on a lightly floured surface for 5-6 minutes. Rest for 5 minutes. Gradually incorporate Water 2 and continue kneading for another 4-5 minutes until the dough is smooth and cohesive. Transfer to a bulk fermentation container and cover.
  Target a final dough temperature of 76-78°F (24-26°C).

3. Bulk Fermentation (9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. – 3 hours):
At a warm room temperature (74-76°F / 23-24°C), allow the dough to bulk ferment for approximately 3 hours. Due to the intensive mixing and stiff nature of this dough, no folds or turns are necessary during this period.

4. Divide and Shape (12:30 p.m.):
Lightly sprinkle two half-sheet pans with medium cornmeal (or white flour if cornmeal is unavailable). Gently turn the dough out onto your work surface and divide it into twelve 130-gram pieces.

• Ball the Dough: For each piece, fold the sides into the center to create a tight ball. Roll it down against the work surface to create a smooth top. Flip and pinch the seam closed.
• Poke and Form the Ring: Flatten the balled dough slightly. Use your index finger to press through the center, creating a hole. Gently stretch the dough as you rotate it to form an enlarged ring, approximately 2 to 2.5 inches in diameter. This hole will shrink during proofing and baking.
  Place the shaped bagels on the prepared sheet pans, leaving some space between them.

5. Overnight Retard (1:00 p.m. to 9:00 a.m. – Day Three Morning):
Cover the sheet pans tightly with lids and refrigerate overnight. This cold proofing period is essential for flavor development.

6. Proof (Day Three, 9:00 a.m.):
Remove the bagels from the refrigerator and let them proof at warm room temperature for two hours. Concurrently, preheat your oven with a baking steel on the middle rack to 500°F (260°C) using convection (or 525°F/270°C if convection is unavailable). Allow at least one hour for thorough preheating.

7. Boil (11:00 a.m.):
Set up your boiling station. In a large pot, bring 1 gallon of water to a rolling boil. Add 1 teaspoon of baking soda and 5 tablespoons of barley malt syrup, stirring until dissolved. Prepare a wire rack over a sheet pan or a clean kitchen towel for the boiled bagels. Have your desired toppings (sesame seeds, poppy seeds, everything seasoning, flaky salt) ready.
Gently lower bagels into the boiling water in batches of 2-3 (do not overcrowd). Boil for 20-25 seconds per side. Using a slotted spatula, remove each bagel, allow excess water to drip off, and place it on the wire rack. Immediately dip the top of the wet bagel into your chosen toppings.

8. Bake (11:15 a.m.):
Transfer one sheet pan of 6 bagels to the preheated baking steel. Bake for 10 minutes. Rotate the pan and reduce the oven temperature to 450°F (230°C) for an additional 5 minutes. The bagels are done when they have achieved a deep golden brown color. Do not underbake; a pale bagel indicates insufficient baking.
Cool the bagels on a wire rack for at least 15-20 minutes before slicing. This allows the internal structure to set properly.

Sourdough Bagel FAQs: Addressing Common Concerns

• How to make sourdough bagels less sour?
  Use a sweet levain as described, and avoid using overly ripe starter. Omitting the whole rye flour can also reduce sourness.

  

• How to achieve an open crumb?
  Increasing the dough hydration by 3-4% (or more, cautiously) can lead to a more open crumb. However, higher hydration can make boiling more challenging.

• Why are my bagels flat?
  This can be due to over-fermentation during bulk or cold proofing, insufficient shaping tightness, or a lukewarm boil water bath. Ensure the water is at a vigorous boil.

• Can I bake them the same day?
  Yes, after shaping, proof at room temperature for 2-3 hours until they pass the poke test. Flavor will be slightly less complex than with a cold proof.

• How long should I boil bagels?
  20-25 seconds per side for a thinner, crispier crust. 30-60 seconds per side for a thicker, chewier crust. Experiment to find your preference.

  

• Is diastatic malt powder essential?
  While not strictly essential, it significantly improves oven spring, crust color, and crumb texture. It’s a valuable ingredient for regular bakers.

• What toppings work best?
  Sesame seeds, poppy seeds, everything seasoning, or coarse salt are classic choices. Dip immediately after boiling while the surface is tacky.

The Culinary Horizon: A Deeper Appreciation for the Bagel

The creation of these "new wave" sourdough bagels at home represents a remarkable achievement. Their thin, crispy, and blistered crust, coupled with an open and tender interior, offers a surprising and delightful eating experience. Whether enjoyed with a simple smear of cream cheese or piled high with lox and capers, the quality of the bagel base is paramount. For those who prefer the more traditional chewy interior and thicker crust of a New York-style bagel, the author’s original sourdough bagel recipe remains an excellent alternative.

This refined recipe owes a debt of gratitude to baking friend Josh Fairbanks, whose expertise was instrumental in its development. His artisanal sourdough bread and bagels in Portland, Oregon, are highly recommended for those in the region. This evolution in bagel making underscores a vibrant culinary landscape where tradition is respected, but innovation is enthusiastically embraced.