The pursuit of the perfect bagel is a journey marked by subtle refinements and a deep understanding of dough. For many bakers, the allure of the bagel lies not just in its satisfying chew but in the delicate balance of its crust, its interior crumb, and the nuanced flavors developed through fermentation. This article delves into the meticulous process behind a new generation of sourdough bagels, a recipe honed through iterative experimentation, aiming to capture the essence of contemporary artisanal baking.

The genesis of this refined sourdough bagel recipe stems from a baker’s persistent curiosity, a desire to push the boundaries of a beloved classic. The core questions revolved around optimizing flavor, texture, and overall character. Could the natural sweetness of a sourdough starter be harnessed differently, perhaps integrated into the levain itself rather than solely relying on added sugars in the final dough? What if the flour blend was more complex, incorporating whole grains for depth and a carefully balanced protein content to encourage a more tender and open crumb? Furthermore, could innovative shaping techniques and extended cold fermentation, combined with a unique boiling liquid, elevate the final product beyond traditional expectations? This iteration of the sourdough bagel recipe aims to provide definitive answers to these questions, building upon the foundational principles of sourdough baking to achieve a bagel that is both technically impressive and supremely delicious.

This evolution in bagel-making is not a radical departure from established norms but rather a sophisticated sharpening of existing techniques. Each modification, from the flour composition to the fermentation process and the final boiling bath, contributes to a cumulative effect that significantly enhances the bagel’s overall quality. The journey began with a recalibration of the flour blend. Moving away from a single flour, the recipe now incorporates a sophisticated mix: high-protein white flour for structure and chew, a medium-protein bread flour for balance, and smaller percentages of whole wheat and whole rye flours. These whole grains are not merely for nutritional value; they are integral to developing a complex flavor profile, imparting a warm, nutty depth from the whole wheat and a subtle earthiness from the rye. Critically, these whole grains, when balanced with the white flours, prevent the bagel from becoming overly dense.

The levain, the heart of any sourdough, also underwent significant modification. By introducing a small amount of sugar into the levain itself, the fermentation is subtly steered towards a more yeast-dominant culture. This adjustment aims to reduce the perceived sourness that can sometimes overpower the delicate flavors of a well-crafted bagel. The shaping method was another key area of innovation. The traditional method of rolling dough into ropes and joining the ends was replaced with the "poke method." This technique, particularly well-suited for higher-hydration doughs, involves pressing a finger through the center of a dough ball and gently stretching it to form the characteristic ring. This not only simplifies the process but also contributes to a more uniform shape.

Perhaps the most impactful change, however, was the introduction of an overnight cold retard. This extended period of rest in the refrigerator fundamentally transformed the bagel’s characteristics. The dough’s flavor deepened, its structure became more refined, and the final bake yielded a crust that was remarkably blistered and delightfully crisp. The crumb also opened up, offering a pleasing texture that is both tender and slightly chewy. The overall result is a bagel that embodies the "new wave" aesthetic, a style increasingly seen in artisanal bakeries, characterized by its lighter feel, glossy, blistered crust, and more open interior.

The "New Wave" Aesthetic: A Departure from Tradition

To fully appreciate the nuances of this new recipe, it’s helpful to compare it to more traditional approaches. The sourdough bagel recipe found in the author’s first cookbook leans towards a classic New York-style bagel. These are typically characterized by a denser, chewier interior, a slightly thicker and more uniformly browned crust, and a more closed crumb structure. This established style prioritizes a robust, satisfying chew and a substantial feel.

In contrast, the "new wave" sourdough bagel, as it’s being termed, aligns more closely with the offerings of contemporary, highly sought-after bagel shops. Establishments like Courage Bagels in Los Angeles have popularized a style that is noticeably lighter, featuring a distinctively glossy and blistered crust that offers a delightful crispness. The shape is often less uniform, reflecting a more artisanal, less mass-produced appearance, and the crumb is more open, providing a more delicate textural experience. This new recipe seeks to capture that sought-after balance of lightness, crispness, and subtle complexity.

Key Innovations in Shaping, Boiling, and Baking

The journey to perfecting these new wave sourdough bagels involved considerable trial and error, leading to several key insights that are crucial for success.

• The Poke Method for Shaping: For higher-hydration doughs, the traditional method of rolling dough into a rope and sealing the ends can be challenging and may lead to seams splitting during the boiling process. The poke method, which involves creating a hole in the center of a balled piece of dough and gently stretching it into a ring, is more forgiving and results in a more even shape. This technique is detailed in the method section and is highly recommended for its simplicity and effectiveness.

• The Indispensable Overnight Retard: While it’s possible to bake these bagels on the same day, the overnight cold proof (retard) is a critical step that significantly enhances both flavor and texture. The extended cold fermentation allows for a deeper development of complex flavors and contributes to a more refined crumb structure. Furthermore, it offers a convenient scheduling advantage, allowing for shaping one evening and boiling and baking the following morning.

• Optimizing the Boil Water: The boiling process is paramount to achieving the characteristic bagel crust. A significant amount of barley malt syrup is added to the boiling water, a classic technique that imparts a unique malty flavor and contributes to the dough’s beautiful browning. Additionally, a teaspoon of baking soda is added to increase the water’s alkalinity, further promoting crust coloration. The resulting boil water should have a noticeably dark hue.

• Precise Boil Time and Intensity: The duration of the boil directly impacts the crust’s texture. A shorter boil, typically 20 to 30 seconds per side, results in a thinner, crisper crust. A longer boil will yield a chewier, denser skin. For this particular recipe, a shorter boil is preferred to maintain a crisp crust without it becoming leathery. It is essential that the barley malt syrup water is at a vigorous, rolling boil before the bagels are introduced.

  

• The Power of Preheated Surfaces: Just as with artisanal bread and pizza, an intensely hot baking surface is crucial for bagels. A baking steel is considered ideal due to its superior heat conductivity, though a thick baking stone will also suffice. The steel or stone must be preheated for at least one hour to ensure a powerful initial oven spring and a well-developed bottom crust.

• The Role of Steam: Introducing steam into the oven during the initial phase of baking, similar to how bread dough is steamed, encourages the formation of microblisters on the bagel’s crust. This technique contributes to the glossy, textured appearance characteristic of high-quality artisanal bagels.

The overarching goal in developing this recipe was to create a sourdough bagel that felt deliberate in its construction and exceptional in its eating experience. The ideal outcome is a bagel that is light yet satisfyingly chewy, with a crisp exterior, a distinct malty sweetness, and enough whole grain character to lend it personality, all without feeling heavy.

Baking Schedule: A Three-Day Process

The creation of these sourdough bagels is structured over a three-day period, offering flexibility to accommodate various schedules.

• Day One (Evening): The process begins with the preparation of the sweet levain. This preferment, enriched with a small amount of sugar, is mixed and left to ferment overnight at room temperature. This gentle fermentation encourages yeast activity while minimizing the development of excessive sourness in the final product.

• Day Two (Morning/Afternoon): The following morning, the main dough is mixed, incorporating the ripened levain, the carefully selected flour blend, and other key ingredients. After an initial bulk fermentation, the dough is divided and shaped. This shaped dough then undergoes an overnight cold proof (retard) in the refrigerator.

• Day Three (Morning): The final stage involves removing the dough from the refrigerator, allowing it to proof briefly at room temperature, followed by the boiling and baking process. This schedule allows for a convenient workflow, with the most intensive hands-on work spread across two days.

For those seeking a quicker turnaround, the overnight cold proof can be omitted. In this scenario, after shaping, the bagels are proofed at room temperature for approximately 2 to 3 hours, until they pass the "poke test" – a simple method to gauge readiness.

Flour Selection: The Foundation of Flavor and Texture

The carefully curated flour blend is a cornerstone of this recipe, playing a pivotal role in achieving the desired texture and flavor.

• High-Protein White Flour (approx. 45%): This forms the base of the blend, typically ranging from 12% to 14% protein content. Brands like King Arthur Bread Flour or Central Milling Great Northern are excellent choices. This component is essential for providing the bagel’s signature chew and structural integrity.

• Medium-Protein White Flour (approx. 40%): Central Milling’s Artisan Bakers Craft, a finely milled bread flour with medium strength, contributes significantly to the blend. If this specific flour is unavailable, any high-quality medium-protein white flour with at least 11% protein can be substituted. This flour balances the high-protein flour, contributing to a more manageable dough and a refined crumb.

• Whole Wheat Flour (approx. 10%): This adds a warm, nutty depth to the flavor profile and contributes to the overall complexity of the bagel.

• Whole Rye Flour (approx. 5%): Rye flour brings a subtle earthiness and can also aid in fermentation activity and contribute to a richer crust color.

  

The combined effect of these flours is a bagel with a nuanced flavor that transcends the simplicity of all-white flour, without becoming heavy or dense.

The Sweet Trio: Barley Malt Syrup, Diastatic Malt, and Sugar

This recipe employs three distinct sweeteners, each serving a specific purpose in enhancing the bagel’s characteristics.

• Barley Malt Syrup: This is a signature ingredient in bagel making, providing a distinctive malty flavor that is slightly sweet, a touch bitter, and deeply savory. It also plays a crucial role in promoting a rich, golden-brown crust during baking. In this recipe, it’s incorporated into both the dough and the boiling liquid.

• Diastatic Malt Powder: This is a powerful enzymatic agent, distinct from barley malt syrup. Diastatic malt contains active enzymes that break down starches into sugars during fermentation and baking. This process enhances crust coloration, promotes oven spring, and contributes to a more open crumb. A small amount, typically around 1% of the flour weight, is used, as its activity is quite potent.

  

• Superfine (Caster) Sugar: This is incorporated into the levain, not the main dough. The "sweet levain" or "sweet starter" helps to invigorate the yeast activity, ensuring a robust rise with minimal sourness transferring to the final bagel.

New Wave Sourdough Bagel Recipe: A Detailed Guide

This recipe is designed to yield 12 bagels, each weighing approximately 130 grams, for a total dough weight of 1,620 grams. The formula is presented using baker’s percentages, allowing for easy scaling.

Vitals:

• Total dough weight: 1,620 grams
• Prefermented flour: 10.0%
• Hydration: 68.0%
• Yield: Twelve 130-gram bagels

Total Formula:
The target final dough temperature for this recipe is 76-78°F (24-26°C).

New Wave Sourdough Bagel Method:

1. Prepare the Levain — Day One, 9:00 p.m.

• In a clean, tall jar, combine 90g medium-protein white flour, 81g water, 18g superfine sugar, and 36g ripe sourdough starter. Stir until the sugar is dissolved and the starter is fully incorporated. Cover and let ferment at room temperature (74-76°F / 23-24°C) overnight, approximately 12 to 14 hours. The levain is ready when it has risen significantly, is bubbly on top, and smells sweet.

2. Mix — Day Two, 9:00 a.m.

• Using a Mechanical Mixer: In the mixer bowl, combine the high-protein white flour, Central Milling Artisan Bakers Craft flour, whole wheat flour, whole rye flour, barley malt syrup, diastatic malt powder, salt, Water 1, and the ripe levain. Mix on low speed for 1-2 minutes until a shaggy mass forms. Increase speed to medium (120-130 RPM) and mix for 5 minutes. The dough will be stiff. Rest for 5 minutes. Gradually add Water 2 over 5 minutes while mixing, continuing until the dough is smooth, strong, and pulls cleanly from the bowl. It should feel firm but slightly tacky.
• By Hand: Combine all dry ingredients and flours in a large bowl. Add the levain, barley malt syrup, diastatic malt powder, and Water 1. Mix thoroughly with wet hands or a dough whisk until no dry flour remains. This dough is stiff; expect resistance. Use the slap-and-fold technique on a lightly floured surface for 5-6 minutes. Rest for 5 minutes. Gradually incorporate Water 2 while continuing to knead for another 4-5 minutes until the dough is smooth and cohesive. A pasta-like kneading technique may be required. Transfer to a bulk fermentation container and cover.
• Ensure a final dough temperature of 76-78°F (24-26°C).

3. Bulk Fermentation — 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. (3 hours)

• Allow the dough to bulk ferment at a warm room temperature (74-76°F / 23-24°C) for approximately 3 hours. Due to the thorough mixing and stiff nature of this dough, no stretch-and-folds are necessary during this phase.

4. Divide and Shape — 12:30 p.m.

• Lightly sprinkle two 13×18-inch half sheet pans with medium cornmeal or white flour.
• Gently turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Divide it into twelve 130-gram portions.
• Ball the Dough: For each portion, fold the edges into the center to create a tight ball. Roll it against the work surface with the side of your hand to create a smooth top surface. Flip and pinch the seam closed to form a perfectly round ball.
• Poke and Form the Ring: Take the first balled dough. Gently flatten it slightly. Use your index finger to press through the center, creating a hole. Pick up the dough and, using both hands, gently stretch the dough as you rotate it to form an enlarged ring with a 2 to 2.5-inch diameter hole. This hole will shrink during proofing and baking, so make it slightly larger than desired.
• Place each shaped bagel on the prepared sheet pans, leaving 1-2 inches between them. Six bagels per pan is recommended.

5. Overnight Retard — 1:00 p.m. to 9:00 a.m. (Day Three Morning)

• Cover the sheet pans securely with lids and place them in the refrigerator.

6. Proof — Day Three, 9:00 a.m.

• Remove the dough trays from the refrigerator and let them proof at warm room temperature for 2 hours.
• About halfway through this proofing period, place a baking steel on the middle oven rack and preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C) using convection. If convection is not available, preheat to 525°F (270°C). Allow at least one hour for thorough preheating.

7. Boil — 11:00 a.m.

• Boil Water Setup: In a large, wide pot, bring 1 gallon of water to a rolling boil. Add 1 teaspoon of baking soda. Once boiling, stir in 5 tablespoons of barley malt syrup until dissolved. Ensure the water is at a vigorous boil before proceeding.
• Prepare a wire rack set over a sheet pan (or a clean kitchen towel) for the boiled bagels. Have your desired toppings (sesame seeds, poppy seeds, everything seasoning, flaky salt) ready in shallow bowls.
• Boiling Process: Working in batches of 2-3 (do not crowd the pot), gently lower the bagels into the boiling malt water, smooth side down first. They should float. Boil for 20-25 seconds per side, then flip and boil for another 20-25 seconds.
• Using a slotted spatula, lift each bagel out, allow excess water to drip off, and place it on the wire rack. Immediately dip the top of the wet bagel into your chosen toppings. Place the topped bagels topping-side up on a parchment-lined sheet pan or directly onto your baking peel.

8. Bake — 11:15 a.m.

• Transfer one sheet pan with 6 bagels to the preheated baking steel.
• Bake for 10 minutes. Rotate the pan and reduce the oven temperature to 450°F (230°C) for an additional 5 minutes. The bagels are ready when they achieve a deep golden-brown color. The barley malt syrup in the dough and boil water will contribute significantly to browning.
• Transfer the baked bagels to a wire rack to cool for at least 15-20 minutes before slicing. This resting period allows the crumb to set properly.

Storage: Store cooled bagels in a sealed bag on the counter for up to a week. For longer storage, slice and freeze them; they can be toasted directly from frozen after defrosting overnight in the refrigerator.

Sourdough Bagel FAQs

• How can I make my sourdough bagels less sour?
  Employing a sweet levain, as outlined in this recipe, is a primary method to reduce sourness. Additionally, avoid using an overly ripe starter for the levain. Omitting the whole rye flour from the recipe can also contribute to a milder flavor.

• How can I achieve an open crumb with my sourdough bagels?
  While this recipe is designed for an open crumb, increasing the dough’s hydration by 3-4% (or more, depending on flour absorption) can further enhance openness. Be aware that higher hydration levels will make the dough more challenging to handle, especially during the boiling stage.

• Why are my bagels flat?
  Flat bagels typically result from one of three issues: over-fermentation during bulk or an extended cold proof, insufficiently tight shaping, or a boil water that is not at a vigorous rolling boil. Ensure the water is aggressively boiling before introducing the bagels to prevent them from spreading.

• Can I bake these the same day without the overnight retard?
  Yes. After shaping, proof the bagels at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours, or until they pass the poke test (they should float within seconds when placed in water). While the flavor complexity will be slightly reduced, they will still be delicious.

  

• How long should I boil bagels?
  A boil time of 20-25 seconds per side yields a thinner, crispier crust. Boiling for 30-60 seconds per side will result in a thicker, chewier skin and a denser interior. Experimentation to find your preferred texture is encouraged.

• Do I need diastatic malt powder? Can I omit it?
  While good bagels can be made without it, diastatic malt powder significantly contributes to oven spring, crust color, and crumb texture. For those who bake regularly, it’s a worthwhile ingredient to keep on hand due to its impactful results.

• What toppings work best?
  Classic toppings include sesame seeds, poppy seeds, everything seasoning, or coarse salt. Dip the bagels immediately after boiling, while the surface is still wet and tacky, to ensure optimal adhesion without the need for an egg wash. For a plain bagel, simply skip the toppings.

The creation of these new wave sourdough bagels represents a sophisticated approach to a beloved baked good. Their characteristic thin, crisp, and blistered crust, combined with a tender and open interior, offers a delightful textural contrast. Whether enjoyed simply with cream cheese or as the foundation for more elaborate toppings, these bagels are a testament to the power of meticulous technique and thoughtful ingredient selection in achieving exceptional results. They stand as a modern interpretation, building upon tradition to deliver a truly remarkable bagel experience.