The pursuit of the perfect bagel is a journey for many bakers, a quest marked by nuanced adjustments and a deep understanding of dough dynamics. For some, the humble bagel represents a challenge that continuously beckons, demanding further refinement and innovation. This sentiment is echoed in the development of a new generation of sourdough bagels, a culinary evolution that moves beyond traditional expectations to embrace a lighter, more complex, and texturally intriguing profile. This updated approach, meticulously crafted and rigorously tested, seeks to answer persistent questions about ingredient synergy, fermentation techniques, and the delicate balance of flavors and textures that define an exceptional bagel.

At its core, this revised recipe is the result of a deliberate and iterative process, much like the creation of a master sourdough loaf. Each element, from the choice of flours to the fermentation schedule, has been scrutinized and optimized. The initial explorations centered on the very foundation of the dough: the flour blend. Moving away from a singular flour, a carefully selected combination of high-protein and medium-protein white flours was introduced, augmented by the subtle character of whole wheat and whole rye. This blend aims to achieve a more tender crumb and an open texture, while the inclusion of whole grains adds depth and a pleasing nuttiness.

Further experimentation delved into the levain, the heart of sourdough fermentation. A subtle addition of sugar to the levain was introduced, shifting the balance to favor yeast activity over lactic acid production. This strategic adjustment helps to temper the inherent sourness often associated with sourdough, allowing other flavors to emerge more prominently in the final product. The shaping technique also underwent a significant transformation. The traditional method of rolling dough into ropes and joining the ends was replaced with the more forgiving "poke method," particularly suited for higher-hydration doughs. This technique not only simplifies the process but also contributes to a more uniform and aesthetically pleasing bagel ring.

Perhaps the most impactful change, however, was the adoption of an overnight cold retard. This extended resting period in the refrigerator, following shaping, proved to be a game-changer. It significantly deepened the flavor profile, enhanced the development of the crust, and resulted in a subtly more open crumb. The visual evidence of this process is striking: a crust adorned with delicate blisters, a testament to controlled fermentation and precise baking. The overall sensory experience – a delightful crispness and a complex aroma – elevates these bagels beyond the ordinary. This is not a radical departure, but rather a sharpening of an already beloved classic, a fine-tuning that amplifies its best qualities.

A video tutorial accompanies this refined recipe, offering a visual guide to the techniques involved. For those familiar with existing sourdough bagel recipes, particularly those found in traditional cookbooks, the distinctions are noteworthy. The cookbook recipe often aligns with the classic New York-style bagel: dense, chewy, with a thicker crust and a more uniform, closed crumb. In contrast, this "new wave" sourdough bagel leans into a contemporary aesthetic, mirroring the popular offerings at artisanal bakeries. These bagels are characterized by their lighter build, a glossy, blistered crust that offers a satisfying crispness, a less uniform shape that speaks to their handcrafted nature, and a more open crumb structure that allows for a delightful textural interplay. This evolution in bagel making is exemplified by establishments like Courage Bagels in Los Angeles, which have garnered significant acclaim for their distinctive take on the classic.

The development of these "new wave" sourdough bagels is not merely an aesthetic pursuit; it is a testament to the baker’s commitment to understanding the intricate science and art of bread making. Each adjustment, from the flour composition to the fermentation and boiling techniques, is a calculated step towards achieving a superior product. The following sections delve into the specifics of shaping, boiling, and baking, offering practical advice gleaned from extensive experimentation.

Key Techniques for Crafting New Wave Sourdough Bagels

Mastering the art of sourdough bagel making involves a series of crucial techniques that contribute to the final product’s unique character. The author’s extensive experience has distilled these into actionable tips for home bakers.

The Poke Method for Shaping

The poke method is a departure from the traditional rope-and-join technique. For higher hydration doughs, which can be more challenging to manipulate, poking a hole through the center of a dough ball and gently stretching it creates a more consistent and forgiving shape. This method is not only simpler but also leads to a more even ring, reducing the likelihood of the dough separating during the boiling process. Detailed instructions are provided to ensure proper execution.

The Indispensable Overnight Retard

While a same-day bake is possible, the overnight cold proof (retard) is presented as a critical step for enhancing flavor complexity and streamlining the baking schedule. The dough can be shaped one evening and then boiled and baked the following morning, offering a convenient rhythm for busy bakers. The cold fermentation imbues the bagels with a deeper flavor and contributes to a more desirable crust texture.

The Significance of the Boil Water Bath

The composition of the boiling liquid is paramount to achieving the characteristic bagel crust. The recipe advocates for a generous addition of barley malt syrup to the boiling water. This classic ingredient imparts a signature malty flavor and aids in achieving a rich, golden-brown crust. The addition of baking soda increases the alkalinity of the water, further promoting browning. The resulting water should appear noticeably dark.

Precision in Boil Time and Intensity

The duration of the boil directly influences the texture of the bagel’s crust. A shorter boil, around 20 to 30 seconds per side, results in a thinner, crisper crust. Conversely, a longer boil will yield a chewier texture and a denser skin. For this specific recipe, the shorter boil is recommended to achieve a crust with ample bite without becoming leathery. Crucially, the water must be at a vigorous, rolling boil throughout the boiling process to ensure proper crust development.

Harnessing the Power of a Preheated Baking Surface

Similar to artisan bread and pizza, bagels benefit immensely from intense, direct heat from below. The use of a preheated baking steel or a thick baking stone is highly recommended. This direct heat transfer is essential for achieving the characteristic "oven spring" and a well-developed bottom crust. The steel or stone should be preheated for at least one hour to ensure optimal heat retention.

The Role of Steam in Crust Development

Introducing steam into the oven environment during the initial baking phase is a technique borrowed from artisan bread baking. This steam helps to keep the surface of the bagel moist, allowing it to expand fully before the crust sets. The moisture from the steam also plays a vital role in encouraging the formation of microblisters on the bagel’s crust, contributing to its glossy and appealing appearance.

The overarching goal of this refined sourdough bagel recipe is to create a product that is both technically accomplished and deeply satisfying. The desired outcome is a bagel that is light yet substantial, subtly chewy with a delightful crisp exterior, and infused with a malty sweetness. The inclusion of whole grains provides an added layer of complexity without making the bagel feel heavy. This is a bagel designed to be savored on its own, perhaps with a simple smear of cream cheese, allowing its inherent qualities to shine.

The Baking Schedule: A Three-Day Process

The creation of these "new wave" sourdough bagels is structured over a three-day period, offering flexibility to accommodate various schedules.

• Day One: Evening. The process begins with the preparation of the sweet levain. This preferment, incorporating a small amount of sugar, is allowed to ferment overnight at room temperature. This initial step sets the stage for a controlled and less sour sourdough character in the final product.
• Day Two: Morning. The main dough is mixed using the prepared levain. Following mixing, the dough undergoes a bulk fermentation period. Afterward, it is shaped and then placed in the refrigerator for a cold proof, or retard, that will last overnight.
• Day Three: Morning/Afternoon. The shaped bagels are removed from the refrigerator and allowed to proof at room temperature for a couple of hours before being boiled and baked. This phased approach allows for optimal flavor development and convenient timing for baking.

For bakers seeking a quicker preparation, the overnight cold proof can be omitted. In such cases, after shaping, the bagels would proof on the counter for approximately two to three hours, or until they pass the "poke test" – a visual indicator of sufficient proofing.

Flour Selection: The Foundation of Flavor and Texture

The carefully curated flour blend is instrumental in achieving the desired characteristics of these sourdough bagels.

• High-Protein White Flour (45%): Constituting nearly half of the flour blend, high-protein flour (typically 12-14% protein) is crucial for developing the signature chew and structural integrity of the bagel. Brands like King Arthur Bread Flour or Central Milling Great Northern are recommended.
• Medium-Protein White Flour (40%): A finely milled, medium-strength bread flour, such as Central Milling’s Artisan Bakers Craft, contributes to the dough’s overall structure and texture. If this specific flour is unavailable, a quality medium-protein white flour with at least 11% protein can be substituted.
• Whole Wheat Flour (10%) and Whole Rye Flour (5%): These whole grains are not merely for nutritional enhancement but are integral to the flavor profile. Whole wheat imparts a warm, nutty depth, while whole rye adds a subtle earthiness and aids in fermentation activity and crust coloration. Together, they contribute a complexity that is absent in an all-white flour dough, without making the bagel overly dense.

Sweeteners: A Trio of Flavor and Function

The recipe employs three distinct sweeteners, each serving a specific purpose:

• Barley Malt Syrup: This classic bagel ingredient is incorporated both into the dough and the boiling water. It is the primary source of the characteristic malty flavor, adding a nuanced sweetness, a touch of bitterness, and a deeply savory note. It also significantly contributes to browning during baking.
• Diastatic Malt Powder: Unlike barley malt syrup, diastatic malt powder is an active ingredient containing enzymes. These enzymes break down starches into sugars during fermentation and baking, which enhances crust color, promotes oven spring, and contributes to a slightly more open crumb. A small amount (1% of the flour weight) is sufficient.
• Superfine (Caster) Sugar: Added to the levain, this sugar is specifically used to encourage vigorous yeast activity. This helps to maximize rise while minimizing the transfer of sourness to the final dough, aligning with the goal of a less tangy bagel.

New Wave Sourdough Bagel Recipe: A Detailed Guide

This recipe yields twelve 130-gram bagels, with a total dough weight of 1,620 grams, accounting for minor losses during preparation. The formula can be scaled using baker’s percentages. The target final dough temperature is between 76°F and 78°F (24°C – 26°C).

Vitals

• Total Dough Weight: 1,620 grams
• Prefermented Flour: 10.0%
• Hydration: 68.0%
• Yield: Twelve 130-gram bagels

Total Formula

Method

1. Prepare the Levain – Day One, 9:00 p.m.

• Ingredients:

  • 90g Medium-protein white flour
  • 81g Water
  • 18g Superfine (caster) sugar
  • 36g Ripe sourdough starter (100% hydration)

• Combine all ingredients in a clean, tall jar (the levain will rise significantly). Stir until the sugar is dissolved and the starter is fully incorporated. Cover and let it ferment at room temperature (74-76°F / 23-24°C) for 12 to 14 hours, or overnight. The levain is ready when it has risen considerably, is bubbly on top, and has a sweet aroma.

2. Mix the Dough – Day Two, 9:00 a.m.

• Final Dough Ingredients:

  • 406g High-protein white flour
  • 271g Medium-protein white flour
  • 90g Whole wheat flour
  • 45g Whole rye flour
  • 23g Barley malt syrup
  • 9g Diastatic malt powder
  • 460g Water 1
  • 72g Water 2
  • 18g Fine sea salt
  • 226g Ripe levain

• By Mechanical Mixer: Combine flour, levain, barley malt syrup, diastatic malt powder, salt, and Water 1 in the mixer bowl. Mix on low speed for 1-2 minutes until a shaggy mass forms. Increase to medium speed (120-130 RPMs) and mix for 5 minutes. Let rest for 5 minutes. Gradually add Water 2 over 5 minutes, continuing to mix until the dough is smooth, strong, and pulls cleanly from the bowl. It should feel firm but slightly tacky.

• By Hand: Combine all dry ingredients and flour in a large bowl. Add levain, barley malt syrup, diastatic malt powder, and Water 1. Mix thoroughly with wet hands or a dough whisk until no dry flour remains. Knead using the slap-and-fold technique for 5-6 minutes. Rest for 5 minutes. Gradually incorporate Water 2 and continue kneading for another 4-5 minutes until the dough is smooth and cohesive. Transfer to a bulk fermentation container and cover.

  

• Aim for a final dough temperature of 76-78°F (24-26°C).

3. Bulk Fermentation – 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. (3 hours)

• Allow the dough to bulk ferment at warm room temperature (74-76°F / 23-24°C) for approximately 3 hours. No stretches or folds are typically needed due to the heavy mixing and stiff nature of the dough.

4. Divide and Shape – 12:30 p.m.

• Lightly sprinkle two 13×18-inch half sheet pans with medium cornmeal or white flour.
• Gently turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and divide it into twelve 130-gram pieces.
• Ball the dough: For each piece, fold the sides into the center, then roll it into a tight ball. Pinch the seam closed and ensure a smooth, taut surface.
• Poke and form the ring: Gently flatten a balled piece. Use your index finger to press through the center, creating a hole. Pick up the dough and gently stretch it outwards while rotating to form a ring with a 2-2.5 inch diameter hole. The hole will shrink during proofing and baking, so make it slightly larger than desired.
• Place the shaped bagels on the prepared sheet pans, leaving space between them (six per pan).

5. Overnight Retard – 1:00 p.m. to 9:00 a.m. (Day Three Morning)

• Cover the sheet pans tightly with lids and refrigerate overnight, for at least 12 hours. This cold proof is crucial for flavor development.

6. Proof – Day Three, 9:00 a.m.

• Remove the bagels from the refrigerator and allow them to proof at warm room temperature for about 2 hours.
• While the bagels proof, place a baking steel on the middle oven rack and preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C) using convection (or 525°F / 270°C without convection). Allow at least one hour for preheating.

7. Boil – 11:00 a.m.

• Boil Water Setup: In a large, wide pot, bring 1 gallon of water to a rolling boil. Add 1 teaspoon of baking soda. Once boiling vigorously, stir in 5 tablespoons of barley malt syrup until dissolved.
• Prepare a wire rack set over a sheet pan or a clean kitchen towel for the boiled bagels. Have your desired toppings (sesame seeds, poppy seeds, everything seasoning, flaky salt) ready.
• Boiling Process: Working in batches of 2-3 (to avoid crowding), gently lower bagels into the boiling malt water, smooth side down first. Boil for 20-25 seconds per side, then flip and boil for another 20-25 seconds.
• Remove bagels with a slotted spatula, allowing excess water to drip off. Immediately dip the top of the wet bagel into your chosen toppings. Place topping-side up on a parchment-lined sheet pan or directly on your baking peel.

8. Bake – 11:15 a.m.

• Transfer one sheet pan with 6 bagels to the preheated baking steel.
• Bake for 10 minutes. Rotate the pan and reduce the oven temperature to 450°F (230°C) for an additional 5 minutes.
• Bagels are done when they have a deep golden-brown crust. The barley malt will ensure beautiful coloration.
• Transfer baked bagels to a wire rack and let cool for at least 15-20 minutes before slicing to allow the interior to set properly.

These "new wave" sourdough bagels represent a significant advancement in home baking, offering a sophisticated yet accessible way to recreate artisanal quality. The meticulous attention to detail in ingredient selection, fermentation, and technique results in a bagel that is both visually stunning and exquisitely flavorful, a testament to the enduring appeal of well-crafted sourdough.