The persistent allure of the perfect bagel has led many bakers down a path of iterative refinement, a journey marked by meticulous adjustments to ingredients, techniques, and fermentation. For some, this quest is a singular obsession, a culinary challenge that demands constant attention. This article delves into a refined approach to crafting sourdough bagels, one that moves beyond traditional expectations to embrace a "new wave" style characterized by a lighter texture, a gloriously blistered crust, and a nuanced flavor profile.

This evolved recipe is not a radical departure from established methods but rather a sharpening of existing techniques, a testament to the cumulative impact of small, considered changes. The genesis of this particular iteration lies in a series of probing questions: could the natural sweetness of a sourdough levain be leveraged more effectively, rather than solely relying on added sugars in the final dough? What if a more complex flour blend, incorporating whole grains and a slightly lower protein content for enhanced tenderness, replaced a single flour type? How could shaping methods and post-fermentation resting periods be optimized to achieve a distinct textural and flavor outcome?

The answer to these culinary inquiries has been meticulously developed over numerous baking cycles, with each variable addressed systematically. The transformation began with the flour blend. A sophisticated combination of high- and medium-protein white flours was introduced, augmented by the subtle depth of whole wheat and a whisper of whole rye. This blend aims to balance chewiness with tenderness, providing a more robust flavor foundation.

The levain itself underwent a recalibration. By incorporating a minute amount of sugar, the levain’s balance was subtly shifted to favor yeast activity over lactic acid production. This strategic adjustment minimizes the pronounced sourness often associated with sourdough, allowing other flavors to emerge more prominently in the finished bagel.

Shaping techniques were also re-examined. The adoption of the "poke method" proved particularly effective for a higher-hydration dough, offering a simpler and more forgiving approach than traditional ring-forming techniques. This method involves creating a hole in the center of the dough ball and gently stretching it to form the characteristic bagel shape, resulting in a more uniform and less prone-to-separation ring.

Perhaps one of the most impactful refinements was the introduction of an overnight cold retard. This extended resting period in the refrigerator significantly influenced the final product. The crumb structure opened up slightly, contributing to a lighter mouthfeel. The crust developed an appealing array of blisters, a visual cue to the intense heat and steam encountered during baking. Crucially, this cold fermentation imparted a more complex flavor profile to the baked bagel, enhanced by a delightful crispness and a richer color. This combination of textural and flavor enhancements aligns with the evolving aesthetic of artisanal bagel shops.

This "new wave" sourdough bagel represents a deliberate evolution, a refined expression of what a sourdough bagel can be. It stands in contrast to more traditional New York-style bagels, which are known for their denser chew, thicker crust, and more uniformly closed crumb. Instead, this iteration leans into the popular aesthetic seen in contemporary bakeries, such as the acclaimed Courage Bagels in Los Angeles, offering a lighter, more approachable bagel with a glossy, blistered exterior and a tender, slightly open interior.

Key Techniques for Elevating Sourdough Bagels

Achieving the desired characteristics of these new wave sourdough bagels involves mastering several key techniques:

• The Poke Method for Shaping: This technique is particularly well-suited for the slightly higher hydration of this dough. By gently poking a hole through the center of a balled piece of dough and then stretching it to form a ring, bakers can create a more consistent shape that is less likely to tear during the boiling process. This method is also more forgiving for doughs that might be a bit stickier or less elastic.

• The Indispensable Overnight Retard: While a same-day bake is possible, the overnight cold proof in the refrigerator is a crucial step for developing depth of flavor and improving the overall texture. This extended fermentation allows enzymes to break down starches and proteins, leading to a more complex taste and a more tender crumb. It also offers a convenient scheduling advantage, allowing for shaping one evening and boiling and baking the following morning.

• Optimizing the Boil Water: The boiling stage is critical for setting the crust and imparting flavor. A generous addition of barley malt syrup to the boiling water is a classic technique that contributes significantly to the bagel’s characteristic color and malty sweetness. The addition of baking soda increases the alkalinity of the water, further promoting browning and a desirable crust texture. The water should appear noticeably dark after these additions.

  

• Precise Boil Time: The duration of the boil directly impacts the crust’s texture. A shorter boil, typically 20-30 seconds per side, results in a thinner, crisper crust. Conversely, a longer boil will yield a chewier, denser skin. For this particular dough, a shorter boil is recommended to achieve a crust with ample bite without becoming leathery. Ensuring the water is at a vigorous, rolling boil is paramount for consistent results.

• The Power of a Preheated Baking Surface: Similar to artisanal bread and pizza, bagels benefit immensely from direct, intense heat from below. A preheated baking steel or a thick baking stone is essential for achieving an explosive oven spring and a perfectly browned bottom crust. It is recommended to preheat the baking surface for at least one hour to ensure it reaches the optimal temperature.

• Strategic Oven Steaming: Introducing steam into the oven during the initial phase of baking, much like with hearth breads, plays a vital role in encouraging the formation of microblisters on the bagel’s crust. This contributes to the glossy, attractive appearance and the desirable textural contrast of the finished product.

The ultimate goal with this recipe is to create a sourdough bagel that feels intentional and refined. The aim is a light, subtly chewy texture with a delicate crispness on the exterior, a distinct malty flavor, and the added complexity from the whole grains. This bagel is designed to be a star on its own, requiring little more than a smear of cream cheese to be enjoyed.

A Deeper Dive into Ingredients and Process

Baking Schedule:
This recipe is designed to be executed over three days, offering flexibility for the home baker.

• Day One: The process begins in the evening with the preparation of the sweet levain. This preferment, enriched with a small amount of sugar, ferments overnight at room temperature.
• Day Two: The following morning, the main dough is mixed, followed by a bulk fermentation period. The shaped bagels then undergo a cold proof (retard) in the refrigerator overnight.
• Day Three: The bagels are boiled and baked on the third day. While the overnight retard is recommended for optimal flavor and texture, a same-day option is available by proofing the shaped dough at room temperature for 2-3 hours.

Flour Selection:
The specific flour blend is a cornerstone of this recipe, contributing significantly to the bagel’s character.

• High-Protein White Flour (12-14% protein): Constituting just under half of the total flour, this component is responsible for the bagel’s signature chew and structural integrity. Brands like King Arthur Bread Flour or Central Milling Great Northern are suitable.
• Medium-Protein White Flour (e.g., Central Milling Artisan Bakers Craft): Approximately 40% of the flour comes from a medium-strong, finely milled bread flour. If this specific brand is unavailable, any quality medium-protein white flour with at least 11% protein can be substituted.
• Whole Wheat and Whole Rye Flour (15% combined): These whole grains are not merely for nutritional enhancement. They are integral to developing a complex flavor profile, with whole wheat offering a warm, nutty depth and whole rye contributing a subtle earthiness and aiding in fermentation and crust browning. Together, they prevent the bagel from feeling heavy while adding significant character.

The Role of Sweeteners:
This recipe employs three distinct sweeteners, each serving a specific purpose:

• Barley Malt Syrup: Incorporated both into the dough and the boiling water, barley malt syrup is the quintessential bagel sweetener. It provides a signature malty flavor, a touch of sweetness, a hint of bitterness, and a deep savoriness. It also actively promotes browning during baking.
• Diastatic Malt Powder: This ingredient functions differently from barley malt syrup. Diastatic malt powder contains active enzymes that break down starches into sugars during fermentation and baking. This enzymatic action contributes to improved crust color, enhanced oven spring, and a more open crumb structure. A small percentage (1%) is typically used, but its impact is substantial.
• Superfine (Caster) Sugar: Added exclusively to the levain, this sugar acts as a "sweet starter" or "sweet levain." Its primary function is to stimulate yeast activity, ensuring a robust rise with minimal transfer of sourness to the final dough.

New Wave Sourdough Bagel Recipe and Method

Vitals:
This recipe yields twelve 130-gram bagels, with a total dough weight of approximately 1,620 grams to account for minor prep losses. The formula is designed for adaptability using baker’s percentages.

• Total Dough Weight: 1,620 grams
• Prefermented Flour: 10.0%
• Hydration: 68.0%
• Yield: Twelve 130-gram bagels
• Target Final Dough Temperature: 76-78°F (24-26°C)

Total Formula:

New Wave Sourdough Bagel Method:

1. Prepare the Levain (Day One, 9:00 p.m.):
In a clean, tall jar, combine 90g medium-protein white flour, 81g water, 18g superfine sugar, and 36g ripe sourdough starter. Stir until the sugar is dissolved and the starter is fully incorporated. Cover and let ferment at room temperature (74-76°F / 23-24°C) for 12-14 hours, or overnight. The levain is ready when it has significantly risen, is bubbly on top, and smells sweet.

2. Mix the Dough (Day Two, 9:00 a.m.):

• By Machine: In a mixer bowl, combine the high-protein white flour, Central Milling Artisan Bakers Craft flour, whole wheat flour, whole rye flour, barley malt syrup, diastatic malt powder, salt, and Water 1. Mix on low speed for 1-2 minutes until a shaggy mass forms. Increase speed to medium (120-130 RPMs) and mix for 5 minutes. Allow the dough to rest for 5 minutes. Gradually add Water 2 over 5 minutes while mixing. Continue mixing until the dough is smooth, strong, and pulls cleanly from the bowl. It should feel firm but slightly tacky.
• By Hand: Combine all dry ingredients and flours in a large bowl. Add the ripe levain, barley malt syrup, diastatic malt powder, and Water 1. Mix thoroughly with wet hands or a dough whisk until no dry flour remains. Knead using the slap-and-fold technique for 5-6 minutes. Rest for 5 minutes. Gradually incorporate Water 2 while continuing to knead for another 4-5 minutes until the dough is smooth and cohesive. The dough will be stiff. Transfer to a bulk fermentation container and cover.

Ensure a final dough temperature of 76-78°F (24-26°C).

3. Bulk Fermentation (Day Two, 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. – 3 hours):
At a warm room temperature (74-76°F / 23-24°C), allow the dough to bulk ferment for approximately 3 hours. Due to the thorough mixing and stiff nature of this dough, no stretches or folds are required during this period.

4. Divide and Shape (Day Two, 12:30 p.m.):
Lightly sprinkle two half-sheet pans (13×18 inches) with medium cornmeal or flour. Gently scrape the dough onto a lightly floured surface and divide it into twelve 130-gram pieces.

• Ball the Dough: For each piece, fold the edges into the center to form a tight ball. Roll it down on the work surface with the side of your hand to create a smooth top surface. Flip the dough over and pinch the seam closed.
• Poke and Form the Ring: Pat the balled dough slightly flat. Use your index finger to press through the center, creating a hole. Gently stretch the dough around your fingers to form an enlarged ring, aiming for a hole diameter of 2 to 2.5 inches. The hole will shrink during proofing and baking. Place the shaped bagels on the prepared sheet pans, leaving 1-2 inches between them, with six bagels per pan.

5. Overnight Retard (Day Two, 1:00 p.m. to Day Three, 9:00 a.m.):
Cover the sheet pans tightly with lids and refrigerate overnight for at least 12 hours.

6. Proof (Day Three, 9:00 a.m.):
Remove the sheet pans from the refrigerator and allow the bagels to proof at warm room temperature for 2 hours. During the last hour of proofing, place a baking steel or stone on the middle oven rack and preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C) using convection (or 525°F / 270°C without convection). Allow the oven to preheat for at least one hour.

7. Boil (Day Three, 11:00 a.m.):
Set up your boiling station. In a large, wide pot, bring 1 gallon of water to a rolling boil with 1 teaspoon of baking soda. Stir in 5 tablespoons of barley malt syrup until dissolved. The water should be at a vigorous boil. Prepare a wire rack set over a sheet pan or a clean kitchen towel for the boiled bagels. Have your desired toppings (sesame seeds, poppy seeds, everything seasoning, coarse salt) ready in shallow bowls.

Working in batches of 2-3, gently lower the bagels into the boiling water, smooth-side down first. Boil for 20-25 seconds per side. Using a slotted spatula, lift each bagel, allow excess water to drip off, and place it on the wire rack. If adding toppings, dip the wet tops of the bagels into the chosen toppings immediately. Place the topped bagels topping-side up on a parchment-lined sheet pan or directly onto your peel.

8. Bake (Day Three, 11:15 a.m.):
Transfer one sheet pan with 6 bagels to the preheated baking steel. Bake for 10 minutes. Rotate the pan and reduce the oven temperature to 450°F (230°C). Continue baking for another 5 minutes, or until the crust is a deep golden brown. The barley malt syrup will contribute to beautiful coloring; avoid underbaking.

Transfer the baked bagels to a wire rack to cool for at least 15-20 minutes before slicing. This resting period allows the crumb to set properly.

Sourdough Bagel FAQs

How can I make my sourdough bagels less sour?
These bagels are designed to be minimally sour due to the sweet levain. If yours are still too sour, ensure you are not using an overly ripe starter for the levain. Omitting the whole rye flour can also reduce sourness.

How can I achieve an open crumb with my sourdough bagels?
To enhance crumb openness, consider increasing the dough hydration by 3-4% or more. However, note that higher hydration levels can make handling the dough during boiling more challenging.

Why are my bagels flat?
Flat bagels typically result from over-fermentation during bulk fermentation or refrigeration, insufficient shaping tension, or a boil water that is not at a rolling boil. A vigorous boil is crucial for proper expansion.

Can I bake these the same day without the overnight retard?
Yes. After shaping, proof the bagels at room temperature for approximately 2-3 hours until they float in water. Same-day bagels will have slightly less complex flavor but remain delicious.

How long should I boil bagels?
A 20-25 second boil per side yields a thinner, crispier crust. A longer boil (30-60 seconds per side) develops a thicker, chewier skin. Experiment to find your preferred texture.

Do I need diastatic malt powder? Can I leave it out?
While good bagels can be made without it, diastatic malt powder significantly improves oven spring, crust color, and crumb texture. It is a worthwhile ingredient for regular bakers.

What toppings work best?
Classic toppings include sesame seeds, poppy seeds, everything seasoning, or coarse salt. Dip bagels immediately after boiling while they are still wet and tacky for optimal adhesion, without the need for an egg wash.

The creation of these "new wave" sourdough bagels at home is a testament to the dedication and innovation within the baking community. With their distinctive thin and crispy, blistered crust and an open, tender interior, they offer a delightful and satisfying experience. Whether enjoyed simply with cream cheese or piled high with classic accompaniments, they provide an exceptional base for any bagel lover’s preference. For those seeking a more traditional, chewy, and thick-crusted New York-style sourdough bagel, an alternative recipe is also available. This refined approach was developed with valuable insights from baking friend Josh Fairbanks, whose expertise in artisanal bread and bagels is highly regarded.