The Chicago Loop is set to welcome a sophisticated addition to its culinary landscape on May 6 with the debut of Mariela, a restaurant and bar located within the landmark Reliance Building at 1 W. Washington. The venture, led by acclaimed chefs Rishi Kumar and Zubair Mohajir, represents a creative exploration of coastal identities, merging the flavors of Southeast Asia with the culinary traditions of the Americas and Europe. With a beverage program curated by David Mor, Mariela aims to bridge the gap between global nostalgia and modern Midwestern hospitality, offering a multi-faceted dining experience that spans from early morning coffee to late-night cocktails.
A Narrative of Oceans and Origins
Mariela is positioned as more than a restaurant; it is described by its founders as a story of "oceans and origins." The concept is deeply rooted in the personal histories of Chefs Kumar and Mohajir, both of whom have traversed significant geographical and cultural distances to reach the Chicago food scene. The menu is designed to reflect the movement of flavors across shorelines, highlighting the similarities between disparate coastal cultures rather than their differences.
Chef Rishi Kumar, a partner in the project, emphasizes that the restaurant serves as a lens through which to view South Asian cuisine as a global phenomenon. By focusing on the "coastal bounty," the team intends to showcase how migration and the historical trade of spices and techniques have shaped the modern palate. The philosophy behind Mariela is one of "independent thought" and a "strong point of view," aiming to provide a balanced and intentional experience within the competitive Chicago dining market.
The Architectural Significance of the Reliance Building
The choice of location is as significant as the menu itself. The Reliance Building, where Mariela is housed, is a National Historic Landmark and a cornerstone of the "Chicago School" of architecture. Designed by Charles B. Atwood of the firm Burnham & Root (and later completed by D.H. Burnham & Co.), the building is celebrated for its early use of large plate-glass windows—known as "Chicago windows"—and its white terracotta facade.
Completed in the mid-1890s, the Reliance Building was a precursor to the modern skyscraper, utilizing a steel-frame construction that allowed for an unprecedented amount of natural light. Today, the building houses the Staypineapple Chicago boutique hotel. The integration of Mariela into this historic space connects the city’s architectural past with a forward-looking culinary vision. The interior design, handled by Matthew Hunnel of Audacity, seeks to honor this legacy while introducing contemporary luxury. The space is characterized by soft earthy tones, coastal-inspired palettes, and natural wood accents, creating an environment that feels both grounded and elevated.
The Culinary Leadership: Kumar and Mohajir
The kitchen at Mariela is powered by two of Chicago’s most innovative culinary figures. Rishi Kumar’s journey began in Singapore, where he was exposed to a diverse array of flavors from a young age. His formal training at the Singapore campus of the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) led him to kitchens in southern France and Southeast Asia before he transitioned to the United States. In the U.S., Kumar became a prominent figure within a leading Mexican restaurant group, a role that saw him traveling extensively through Mexico to study regional techniques. This unique blend of Singaporean heritage, French training, and Mexican expertise informs his approach to the "global coastal" menu.
Partnering with Kumar is Zubair Mohajir, a chef whose name has become synonymous with progressive South Asian cuisine in Chicago. Born in Chennai and raised in Doha, Mohajir’s career began in finance before he pivoted to the culinary arts in 2008. His resume includes stints at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Pump Room and Thomas Keller’s Bouchon. Notably, Mohajir completed an apprenticeship at Gaggan in Bangkok, which has frequently been ranked as the best restaurant in Asia. Since launching the Wazwan Supper Club in 2017, Mohajir has expanded his footprint with concepts like Lilac Tiger, Coach House, and Mirra. His work at Mariela continues his mission of pushing the boundaries of South Asian food through a modern, innovative lens.
A Seafood-Forward Philosophy
The menu at Mariela is anchored by the ocean. It adopts a seafood-forward philosophy that utilizes spices and stories gathered from shorelines around the world. While the specific dishes are designed to be bold and expressive, the service model is intended to make this "curious food" feel accessible.
The restaurant operates on an all-day schedule to cater to the diverse needs of the Loop’s workforce, hotel guests, and tourists. Starting at 7:00 a.m., Mariela serves as a hub for coffee and breakfast. At 11:00 a.m., the transition to lunch occurs, followed by a dinner service that runs from 4:00 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. A notable feature of the daily schedule is the happy hour, held from 4:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m., which includes a selection of $1 oysters—a nod to the restaurant’s coastal focus.
The Beverage Program: Classic Roots and Coastal Inspiration
Complementing the kitchen’s output is a beverage program led by David Mor, an award-winning bartender and entrepreneur. Mor, known for his work at Truce and Mirra, has crafted a program that balances classic cocktail frameworks with "breezy and fresh" coastal influences.
The program at Mariela is two-fold. First, it draws inspiration from the history of hotel bars, which have historically been the birthplaces of many classic cocktails. Mor intends to execute these classics with precision while adding subtle "whispers of tropical flavor" or "oceanic inspiration." Second, the wine list focuses on coastal wine regions, offering selections that pair naturally with seafood-heavy dishes. The program also features an elevated coffee program and creative non-alcoholic (NA) options, ensuring that the beverage experience is as inclusive as the food menu.
Strategic Impact and Local Market Context
The opening of Mariela comes at a pivotal time for the Chicago Loop. Following the shifts in downtown occupancy and tourism patterns over the last few years, the area has seen a resurgence in high-end, chef-driven dining concepts that aim to draw both locals and visitors back to the city center.
By situating itself within the Staypineapple Chicago hotel, Mariela leverages the built-in traffic of a boutique hotel while establishing itself as a standalone destination for food enthusiasts. The addition of a 20-seat patio for alfresco dining during the summer months further enhances its appeal as a vibrant urban oasis.
Furthermore, the collaboration between Kumar, Mohajir, and Mor represents a "supergroup" of sorts within the local industry. Their collective experience at award-winning establishments suggests that Mariela is positioned to be a serious contender in the city’s competitive dining scene. The focus on "South Asian food through the lens of global coasts" fills a specific niche in the market, offering a narrative-driven experience that differentiates it from traditional fusion restaurants.
Chronology of Development
The path to Mariela’s opening has been a strategic progression for the team:
- 2017–2023: Chef Zubair Mohajir establishes himself in Chicago with Wazwan, Coach House, and Lilac Tiger, earning multiple James Beard Award nominations.
- 2023: The team launches Mirra, further refining their collaborative approach to bold, global flavors.
- Early 2024: Finalization of the Mariela concept and design by Matthew Hunnel of Audacity.
- May 6: Official opening to the public at 1 W. Washington.
Implications for Chicago’s Culinary Reputation
The launch of Mariela reinforces Chicago’s status as a premier global dining destination. The city has long been celebrated for its ability to host diverse culinary voices, and the specific focus on the "migration of flavors" at Mariela aligns with broader industry trends toward authenticity and storytelling.
As the restaurant begins its operations, it will likely serve as a case study in how historic architecture can be successfully paired with modern hospitality concepts. The success of such ventures often depends on the balance between honoring the past and providing a contemporary, high-quality product. With a team of seasoned professionals at the helm, Mariela is well-equipped to navigate these complexities.
Summary of Operations and Accessibility
Mariela is located at 1 W. Washington, Chicago, IL. The restaurant is open daily with the following schedule:
- Coffee & Breakfast: 7:00 a.m. – 11:00 a.m.
- Lunch: 11:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.
- Dinner: 4:00 p.m. – 9:30 p.m.
- Happy Hour: 4:00 p.m. – 6:00 p.m. (featuring $1 oysters).
For the local community and visitors alike, the arrival of Mariela offers a new opportunity to experience the "coastal bounty" in the heart of the Midwest, anchored by a deep respect for culinary heritage and a passion for innovation. As the doors open this May, the Chicago Loop adds another chapter to its storied history of architectural and gastronomic excellence.
