This spice-forward, hearty sourdough is precisely the kind of bread that can invigorate one through the lingering chill of winter. While the biting cold might serve as a motivation to fire up the oven and work with a well-proofed dough, the early darkness and dry air present their own challenges. However, the process of creating this bread offers its own warmth and reward. From the pungent aroma of freshly ground anise to the sweet richness of malt, the visually appealing buckwheat-speckled dough, and the silky texture derived from a flour scald, each step contributes to a baking experience that can make one momentarily forget the frigid weather outside.

Anise, a spice that announces its presence with assertive fragrance, is a favorite for many bakers. Its distinct licorice-sweet profile is often found in cookies and biscotti. This recipe marks a foray into incorporating this powerful spice into a substantial loaf of sourdough bread. The intense aroma of anise, described as not politely waiting to be noticed but rather arriving with conviction, pairs beautifully with the nutty, mineral, and slightly tannic notes of buckwheat. This combination results in a sourdough loaf that achieves a remarkable balance and undeniable allure. To crown this creation, a topping of striking white sesame seeds is recommended. These seeds not only complement the inherent spice and sweetness of the bread but also provide a visually stunning contrast against the whole-grain crumb.

The Science and Art of Flour Scalding

The inclusion of buckwheat in this recipe was a deliberate choice, and the technique of scalding flour was employed to enhance both flavor and texture. Scalding flour, a simple process of combining it with boiling water, transforms it into a thick, gelled paste. This method is akin to the Japanese yudane technique and closely related to the popular tangzhong method. The resulting scalded paste is intensely aromatic and flavorful. Crucially, it contributes to a softer, more tender crumb that stays fresh for longer by effectively trapping moisture and delaying the staling process. This technique is an accessible way to elevate the quality and longevity of baked goods.

Flour Selection: Building a Hearty Foundation

The aspiration for this loaf was to create something hearty, spicy, and ideally suited for sandwiches. To achieve this, high-extraction (Type 85) flour was chosen as the primary base. Cairnspring’s Trailblazer, a Type 85 flour, is recognized for its versatility and is frequently substituted for white flour in many recipes. It introduces a greater proportion of bran and germ, contributing to a more robust flavor and enhanced nutritional profile in the final bread.

Buckwheat, while celebrated for its earthy flavor and distinctive color, presents a unique characteristic in baking. Based on prior experience, even in small percentages, buckwheat can lead to a tighter crumb structure due to its lack of gluten-forming proteins, unlike wheat. However, the trade-off for this structural characteristic is the intense earthiness and the visually appealing hue it imparts to the finished loaf.

Baking Schedule: A Two-Day Approach

This sourdough bread recipe is designed to be executed over a two-day period, minimizing the need for constant baker intervention. The primary tasks involve occasional checks on the dough during bulk fermentation and a subsequent cold proof overnight after shaping. The loaves can then be baked the following morning, or they can be held in the refrigerator until the evening, ensuring fresh bread is ready before dinner. This methodical approach allows for optimal flavor development and a manageable baking process.

Recipe Vitals and Formula

This recipe yields two loaves, each weighing approximately 900 grams. For those who prefer to bake a single loaf, all ingredients can be halved. A comprehensive spreadsheet, available to members of The Baker’s Corner, allows for easy scaling of the recipe.

The target final dough temperature for this recipe is 78°F (26°C). Understanding and controlling dough temperature is crucial for consistent baking results, as detailed in discussions on its importance in baking.

Total Dough Weight: 1,800 grams
Prefermented Flour: 5.8%
Levain in Final Dough: 18.5%
Hydration: 75.0% (calculated as 83% when including the water in the flour scald)
Yield: Two 900g loaves

Total Formula:

Method: Crafting the Scalded Buckwheat and Malt Sourdough

1. Prepare the Levain (9:00 a.m.)

Combine the levain ingredients in a clean jar and allow it to ripen, covered, at 74-76°F (23-24°C) for 3 hours. For precise adjustments to levain quantities, a sourdough starter and levain calculator can be utilized.

2. Prepare the Flour Scald (9:10 a.m.)

In a small bowl, pour the boiling water over the buckwheat flour. Stir vigorously until a thick paste forms. If the mixture appears too dry, incorporate an additional small splash of boiling water. Cover the bowl and set aside until ready for dough mixing. The scalded flour is highly aromatic, releasing a distinct scent that hints at the complex flavors to come.

3. Autolyse (11:00 a.m.)

Utilize a water temperature calculator to adjust the autolyse water to achieve the target final dough temperature of 78°F (25°C). In a large bowl, combine the flours, Water 1, and the prepared flour scald. Mix with wet hands until no dry ingredients remain, or use a mixer on low speed until a shaggy dough forms. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, consolidating the dough at the bottom. Cover the bowl and place it near the ripening levain for one hour. Post-autolyse, the dough should exhibit increased strength and hydration.

4. Mix the Dough (12:00 p.m.)

This recipe features a high hydration level, resulting in a slack and sticky dough. It is crucial to reserve Water 2 and add it incrementally only if the dough can accommodate it, employing the bassinage technique to prevent over-hydration.

Mixing with a Mechanical Mixer: The scalded buckwheat dough was mixed using an Ooni Halo Pro spiral mixer in several stages following the autolyse.

Mixing by Hand: Add the salt and levain to the top of the autolysed dough, along with a splash of Water 2 to moisten. Thoroughly incorporate using wet hands or a dough whisk. Knead the dough for approximately 5 minutes, either via the slap-and-fold technique or by folding within the bowl, until it becomes smooth and less shaggy. Transfer the dough back into the bowl, cover, and let it rest for 10 minutes. If the dough remains very wet, refrain from adding any remaining Water 2. If it appears cohesive but still shaggy, incorporate the remaining Water 2 and mix until absorbed. Subsequently, transfer the dough to a clean work surface and continue kneading with wet hands using the slap-and-fold method for 3-5 minutes until it achieves a smoother, more cohesive texture. Alternatively, a series of folds within the bowl can be performed. Finally, place the dough into a bulk fermentation container and cover.

5. Bulk Fermentation (12:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. – 3 hours)

At a warm room temperature of 74-76°F (23-24°C), bulk fermentation should take approximately 3 hours. This stage requires two sets of stretch-and-folds at 30-minute intervals. After the initial 30 minutes of bulk fermentation, perform the first set of stretch-and-folds by grasping one side of the dough, stretching it upwards, and folding it over to the opposite side. Rotate the bowl 180 degrees and repeat the stretch-and-fold. Rotate the bowl another 90 degrees for a third stretch-and-fold, and finally, rotate 180 degrees for a fourth. Cover the dough. Perform a second set of stretch-and-folds after another 30 minutes. Following this, allow the dough to rest, covered, for the remainder of the bulk fermentation period. By the end of this phase, the dough should appear smooth, puffy, and have increased in volume by approximately 30%.

6. Pre-shape (3:30 p.m.)

Gently transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface. Divide the dough in half and pre-shape each portion into a loose round. Allow these rounds to rest, uncovered, for 30 minutes.

7. Shape (4:00 p.m.)

Spread an even layer of raw white sesame seeds on a kitchen towel or a quarter-sheet pan. The "gather up" shaping method is recommended for this dough. Flour the tops of the rested rounds. Using a bench scraper, invert one round onto the floured surface. Fold two opposing points of the dough towards the center, allowing them to overlap slightly. Repeat with the remaining two points. Flip the dough over and use your hands to pull the dough towards your body, creating surface tension. The aim is to achieve a smooth, unformed, round shape.

Carefully scoop the dough with both hands and invert it onto the prepared sesame seeds. Then, transfer the dough, seam-side up, into a round 10-inch proofing basket. Repeat this process for the second piece of dough.

8. Proof (4:15 p.m. to 9:00 a.m. the following day)

Cover the proofing baskets with reusable plastic bags, sealing them securely. Place the baskets in the refrigerator for an overnight cold proof.

9. Bake (9:00 a.m.)

Position an oven rack in the bottom third of the oven. Place a Dutch oven, combo cooker, Challenger bread pan, or baking stone/steel on the rack. Include an empty pan at the bottom for ice, or utilize a bread steel with a Baking Shell. Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C).

Remove one proofing basket from the refrigerator, uncover it, and place a piece of parchment paper over the basket. Position a pizza peel or an inverted baking sheet on top of the parchment and, using both hands, flip the entire assembly over. Gently remove the basket and score the dough.

Carefully slide the dough into the preheated oven. Introduce steam by covering the Baking Shell, Dutch oven, or by adding ice to the preheated pan at the bottom of the oven. Bake for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, vent the oven of steam by removing the lid from the Dutch oven or by removing the steaming pans. Continue baking for an additional 30 minutes. The final loaf should register an internal temperature of approximately 204°F (95°C) and possess a deeply colored crust. Repeat the baking process for the second loaf. Allow the baked loaves to cool on a wire rack for 1 to 2 hours before slicing.

Frequently Asked Questions

What can I use instead of aniseed?
Caraway seeds offer a similar spice profile and would be a suitable substitute for aniseed.

What can I use instead of barley malt syrup?
For a flavor profile that balances bitterness and sweetness, blackstrap molasses is a good alternative. Alternatively, honey can be used to introduce floral sweetness, which complements anise exceptionally well.

Exploring Further Sourdough Innovations

For those interested in further exploring sourdough recipes featuring buckwheat, the "Soft Honey Buckwheat Sandwich Bread" recipe offers a rich yet sweet loaf option. This recipe continues the exploration of buckwheat’s unique qualities in sourdough baking.

The journey of creating this Scalded Buckwheat and Malt Sourdough Bread offers a rewarding experience, transforming simple ingredients into a complex and flavorful loaf that can bring warmth and comfort, even on the coldest days.