In the heart of September 2025, a dedicated group of culinary enthusiasts embarked on an immersive two-week journey through the gastronomic landscapes of Northern Italy. Building upon the success of a previous exploration in Puglia, this expedition, co-led by renowned sourdough artisan Maurizio Leo of The Perfect Loaf and food writer Matt Rodbard of TASTE and Food Time, offered a unique blend of hands-on baking workshops and curated cultural explorations. The itinerary, meticulously designed by Italian culinary expert Angela, traversed iconic cities and picturesque regions, delving into the rich heritage of Italian bread-making, pasta artistry, and artisanal food production.

The journey commenced in Bologna, the culinary capital of Emilia-Romagna, where the first week was dedicated to an intensive sourdough workshop. Participants were guided through the intricacies of crafting classic Italian breads and pizzas using a variety of regional flours. The second week transitioned into a dynamic tour, winding from Bologna to Milan, with frequent stops for specialized mini-workshops focusing on sourdough piadine, the delicate art of panettone, and the creation of traditional pasta sfoglia. The group, characterized by its palpable curiosity, energy, and passion for all things edible, embraced the experience with open minds and eager palates, forging unforgettable memories and deepening their appreciation for Italy’s profound culinary traditions.

As the renowned gastronome Anthony Bourdain famously advised, "travel not as a tourist, but as a traveler," this trip embodied that philosophy, adding the crucial dimension of a baker’s perspective to the exploration of Italy’s vibrant food culture.

Preparing for an International Baking Expedition

The logistical considerations for a baking-focused international trip are multifaceted, particularly when it involves the sensitive nature of sourdough starters. Maurizio Leo, a seasoned traveler with sourdough in tow, detailed his preparations. "As always when traveling, I mixed up my sourdough starter to a stiff consistency (50% water to total flour) to carry on the plane in my bag," Leo explained. "To be extra sure for this trip, I mixed up a second batch and tossed it into my suitcase to be checked."

Upon arrival in Bologna, Leo’s immediate priority was to reactivate his starters. This involved a trip to a local Carrefour for flour, followed by careful feeding at the hotel. "I fed my starter equal parts flour, starter, and warm water for a fast 3-hour ripening time," he noted. "This helped to get it ramped up before another feeding at night, and then it was ready to use by the next morning." This diligent approach ensured the vitality of his leavening agent, a critical component for the week’s workshops. The first task was a test bake of sourdough baguettes, a crucial step to assess the local equipment and flour characteristics.

Week 1: Bologna – A Sourdough and Pizza Immersion

Bologna, a city deeply intertwined with Leo’s personal history, served as the ideal starting point for the workshop. Having visited numerous times due to family ties and his brother’s university tenure there, Leo possessed an intimate understanding of its culinary offerings, including what he considers some of the best gelato in Italy. This familiarity informed his decision to feature Bologna prominently in the itinerary, a choice that proved to be a resounding success.

Prior to the commencement of the workshop, Leo and Rodbard indulged in an early dinner at Antica Osteria del Mirasole, a celebrated establishment known for its traditional Bolognese fare, including the quintessential tagliatelle al ragù and tortellini in brodo. This culinary prelude set a high standard for the group’s daily lunches, which were thoughtfully integrated into the excursions.

The sourdough and pizza workshop was hosted at a local cooking school, equipped for bread-making. While some of the equipment presented minor challenges for the group size, the invaluable assistance of local collaborators, Maolo and Fabiola, ensured a seamless operation. The pedagogical approach emphasized hands-on learning, allowing participants to engage directly with dough. "As they say, poking dough with your own finger is worth a thousand words," Leo emphasized, underscoring the importance of tactile experience in mastering dough handling.

The curriculum covered a diverse range of sourdough applications, from hearty country loaves to delicate baguettes and authentic Neapolitan-style pizzas. Beyond the technical aspects of mixing, fermentation, and shaping, the workshop integrated visits to local producers. These excursions provided opportunities to source ingredients, taste regional specialties, and foster camaraderie over shared meals.

The workshop menu included:

• Country Loaves: Featuring a blend of Italian flours, showcasing the versatility of sourdough.
• Baguettes: A classic French bread adapted with local ingredients.
• Ciabatta: The iconic Italian bread known for its open crumb and chewy texture.
• Pizza: Utilizing a high-hydration dough for a light and airy crust.
• Sourdough Piadine: A regional flatbread elevated with a sourdough starter.

Beyond the practical baking, Leo dedicated time to discussing sourdough starter maintenance, troubleshooting common issues, and explaining the rationale behind levain preparation.

A key takeaway from the Bologna workshops was the observation regarding the local Type 00 flour. Leo noted its limitations with high hydration levels, a common challenge in humid environments or with flours possessing lower protein content. "The humid environment, soft flour (with low protein content), and the absence of a mixer with a second speed resulted in dough that simply needed further reduction in hydration, more intensive mixing, or both," he reported. This experience provided a valuable teaching moment, demonstrating how bakers can strengthen dough through techniques like increased folds during bulk fermentation or employing a second preshape.

The week culminated in a celebratory pizza party, featuring over twenty pizzas crafted with a variety of local toppings, including fior di latte mozzarella, gorgonzola, prosciutto, and fresh figs. This event fostered a sense of accomplishment and strengthened the bonds among participants, reinforcing the idea that "in bread baking, every day offers a fresh start."

Week 2: Bologna, Riolo Terme, and Milan – A Journey of Flavors

Following a brief interlude, which included a visit to renowned panettone baker Olivieri near Verona, the second week of the tour commenced with a new cohort of travelers. This six-day segment was characterized by an intensive itinerary featuring exclusive access to producers, bakeries, and retailers not typically open to the public.

The tour began in Riolo Terme, a tranquil spa town outside Bologna, at a wellness hotel. The relaxed ambiance was punctuated by lively Sunday evenings, with music and spritz fostering a convivial atmosphere. Here, Leo led an introductory workshop on his sourdough piadine, a delightful way to break the ice with the new group.

The journey then led to Monghidoro, where participants explored an ancient chestnut flour mill and traditional stone mills. A highlight of this excursion was a visit to Forno Calzolari, a family-run bakery. Matteo and his family hosted a sourdough starter workshop, a dough shaping session, and a bake-off in their wood-fired oven. This experience offered a profound glimpse into a family deeply committed to using locally grown and milled grains, prioritizing healthful bread for their community. The baked goods, particularly the wood-fired tomatoes, left a lasting impression.

The group also witnessed the traditional practice of baking small flatbreads, known as "witches," to test the temperature of the wood-fired oven before larger bakes. The unique shaping style of the local bread further enriched the participants’ understanding of regional baking traditions.

An impromptu aperitivo at the hotel featured a spread of bakery treats and a panettone from their visit to Olivieri, enjoyed alongside local meats and cheeses, while nearby music and dancing added to the vibrant atmosphere.

The Queens of Emilia-Romagna: Pasta, Cheese, and Balsamic

The following day brought a shift in focus to the art of pasta making at VSB (Vecchia Scuola Bolognese) in Bologna. Under the tutelage of Maestra Spisni and her family, participants learned the foundational techniques of rolling sfoglia, the delicate pasta dough that is central to Emilia-Romagna’s cuisine. While mastering this craft takes years, the workshop provided a rewarding hands-on experience, culminating in a delicious group lunch featuring freshly made pasta.

A guided walking tour of Bologna followed, revealing historical landmarks and bustling food markets. The tour included another delightful tasting of tortellini and tortelloni, a testament to the region’s pasta prowess. The day concluded with a visit to Cremeria La Vecchia Stalla for gelato, though Leo maintained his fondness for Cremeria Cavour as his top gelato spot in the city. Dinner at Ristorante Da Cesari provided a final Bolognese culinary immersion, carb-loading in preparation for the next day’s focus on cheese and balsamic vinegar.

The itinerary then shifted to a private bus tour into the countryside to visit Latteria La Grande, a significant producer of Parmigiano Reggiano. A captivating tour, led by an enthusiastic guide, showcased the meticulous process of transforming raw milk into the iconic wheels of cheese. The sheer scale of the operation, with its towering stacks of aged Parmigiano, left attendees in awe. The experience prompted many to purchase additional luggage to accommodate their newfound appreciation for this culinary treasure.

The journey continued to Acetaia Leonardi for an immersive balsamic vinegar tasting and a lunch that masterfully incorporated balsamic into various dishes, from cheese and bread to pasta and even panettone.

Milanese Flavors: Panettone and Artisanal Bread

The final leg of the tour saw the group transfer to Milan, a city offering a distinct culinary contrast to Bologna. Milan’s gastronomic identity leans towards risotto, cotoletta, and a vibrant aperitivo scene, reflecting its status as a global hub of fashion and industry.

Before diving into the panettone workshop, a visit to Pasticceria Marchese offered an opportunity to savor an exceptional panettone, described by Leo as "light and open with a soft crumb, high-quality candied fruit in just the right proportion, and no glaze on top, as is my preference and common in Milan." This high standard set the stage for the upcoming workshop.

The panettone workshop, led by an experienced chef, provided an introduction to what is considered one of the most challenging breads to master. Participants gained insights into the entire process, including hands-on practice with dividing, shaping, and scoring the delicate dough.

The final day included a visit to the acclaimed bakery of Davide Longoni, a baker known for his commitment to growing, milling, and utilizing his own grains. Longoni’s bakery, described as more of a "laboratory" than a traditional bakery, showcased a prototype mill for in-house flour production, highlighting a dedication to controlling every step of the bread-making process. The guide’s passion and knowledge conveyed a deep-seated belief in the quality and integrity of their products.

The visit concluded with a tasting of Davide Longoni’s diverse range of breads, expertly paired with local cheeses, meats, and wines. Leo particularly lauded their "pizza alla palla," a focaccia-like creation, for its perfect balance of airy texture and delicate crust.

The farewell group meal at Bistrot Da Giacomo, a sophisticated establishment, served as a poignant conclusion to the journey. The exceptional food and the palpable sense of camaraderie among the participants underscored the transformative power of shared culinary experiences. The article noted, "There’s something about traveling with people who share your passions that collapses time—friendships that should take years happen in days."

The trip provided a rich tapestry of experiences, from the hands-on creation of sourdough in Bologna to the nuanced flavors of balsamic vinegar and the iconic sweetness of Milanese panettone. It served as a testament to the enduring appeal of Italy as a destination for culinary exploration and a deep dive into the art and science of baking.

For those eager to relive the journey, a comprehensive collection of photos and videos is available on Leo’s Instagram highlights. Plans are already in motion for future culinary adventures, with the travel page on The Perfect Loaf website serving as the primary source for updates on upcoming trips and workshops.